Given the limited selection of French restaurants in the area, a follow-up visit to La Vigne seemed a fitting choice for lunch with friends on Bastille Day. Unfortunately, my impression of La Vigne has not changed much since our initial visit last summer. In fact, the experience was so similar – flubs with service, disappointing food, and lots of empty tables – that to detail my experience at lunch would sound like plagiarism of Rob's review.

Instead I'd like to point out my own pet peeve with La Vigne, which Rob touched on briefly in his review, which is the lack of authentic ambience and culture. As a once-fluent French speaker and an interior designer, these facets of a dining experience for me weigh equally with the quality of food and service. In addition, the French are fiercely protective of their language and culture, so it's particularly disappointing that this French restaurant fails to capture either.

The decor of southern France does sometimes include heavy stone walls and iron gates, but these adornments to La Vigne's generic strip-mall location could be improved upon with some truly French touches. May I suggest some traditional Provençal fabrics? Or some rustic turned-wood chairs, instead of that corporate lobby-looking furniture? Maybe a couple of live lavender plants?

Perhaps the staff could have a brief training on the French language, or at least on the few words which are relevant in this case. One of the hostesses consistently mispronounces the name of the restaurant. I know the "gne" combo can be difficult to pronounce, so I'd love to suggest that using the last name of a certain pop star, Avril, might be closer, or maybe the name of the town on the southwestern outskirts of Phoenix. When asked what the vin du jour (wine of the day) would be, as advertised in French on the specials leaflet, our server corrected me, "You mean the vin?," which he pronounced like "bin." Sure. Whatever gets me a glass of fermented grape juice.

La Vigne is celebrating their one-year anniversary. I had hoped after our visit last year that it would improved over time, but unfortunately it's more like plus de la même chose – more of the same thing.

Back in 2006, I wrote a post criticizing the Ahwatukee Foothills News for their Best of Ahwatukee list. The winners in almost all categories were well known chain restaurants, leading me to wonder whether it was the paper pandering to their advertisers, or the case that people in Ahwatukee just had no taste.

You'll understand then why I became completely infuriated when I came across the Arizona Republic's 2008 Reader's and Critic's Choice Awards for Best Dining & Food. While I can say that the critic's awards were all within the realm of possibility (although I find some of the categories odd), the Reader's Choice awards were completely appalling. By an amazing happenstance, Oreganos's Pizza Bistro (no link, their site requires an annoying ActiveX control, which is a possible security hazard) won 11 out of 31 categories. That's right. Not only did they win best pizza, but also best Italian, best sandwich, best dessert, best family owned, best for a first-date, best local treasure, best takeout, best patio dining, best worth the wait and best quick (non-fast) food. How the heck do you win both best quick and best worth the wait? I don't even know where to start with this. If Oregano's had simply won best pizza, I could have lived with that, although I would have personally disagreed. However, winning 11 out of 31 categories, some of them totally ridiculous completely smacks of ballot-stuffing. Come on AZ Republic, wake up! Learn how to run a poll. I've never lived in or visited another major city with such a crappy (and consistently crappy) reader's choice awards.

Just so you can see the full list for yourself, here it is, along with some snarky commentary from me:

  • Best Dessert: Oregano's Pizza Bistro - I know people like the pizza cookie, but come on. There are some seriously talented pastry chefs in the valley, and this is the best that people could come up with?
  • Best Breakfast: Crackers & Co. - never been there, so I can't argue with this one.
  • Best Indian Restaurant: Indian Maharaja Palace - Indian food in the valley is mediocre at best.
  • Best Pizza: Oregano's Pizza Bistro - If this is the will of the people, fine. However, there is much better to be found as you can see from the runner-up list.
  • Best Neighborhood Mexican: Carolina's Mexican Food - This makes sense.
  • Best Bakery: Wicked Witch Bakery - Works for me, although I find the bakery selection in the valley to be seriously lacking.
  • Best Family-owned Restaurant: Oregano's Pizza Bistro - it is a family owned restaurant.
  • Best Late-Night Eats: Fez - Couldn't agree more. Excellent food all the way through closing.
  • Best Place for a First Date: Oregano's Pizza Bistro - if someone took me here for a first date, it would also be the last date.
  • Best Salsa: Macayo's - WTF?!!?
  • Best Sushi: Ra See best salsa!
  • Best Restaurant 'Worth the Wait': Oregano's Pizza Bistro - with long waits both at lunch and on weekends, Oregano's is definitely popular. However, I can't say it's really worth the wait.
  • Best Wine Selection: D'Vine Bistro & Wine Bar - Been there and wasn't that impressed. If wine selection is really the criteria, then how could a place like Cowboy Ciao (even though I hate how their wine list is organized), or Kazimierz not win?
  • Best Barbecue: Famous Dave's Legendary Pit Bar-B-Que - very hot topic. My pick would be Joe's Real BBQ, but that's just me.
  • Best Local Treasure: Oregano's Pizza Bistro - Seriously now. Local treasure? Can you say huh?
  • Best Chinese: P. F. Chang's China Bistro - Good Chinese isn't great in the valley, but we do have better than P. F. Chang's, and I don't mean Pei Wei.
  • Best Place for Takeout: Oregano's Pizza Bistro - NO!
  • Best Non-Chain Hamburger: Zipps Sports Grill - Oh boy. It's a typical bar burger. It isn't bad, but it's by far not the best. Both Delux and Chuckbox should easily have been at the top of the list.
  • Best Ice Cream/Frozen Novelty: Maui Wowi - Wowi Maui. Good job.
  • Best Middle Eastern Restaurant: Haji-Baba - Very popular and supplies most of the rest of the middle eastern/Mediterranean restaurants in the area.
  • Best Italian Restaurant: Oregano's Pizza Bistro - It's a pizza place with a handful of other Italian dishes! There are many, many more Italian restaurants in the valley that are far superior.
  • Best Sandwich: Oregano's Pizza Bistro - This is such a broad category. In many other cities they would break this one out. Mention this wind to a dozen of your friends and see how many of them react with "are you kidding me?"
  • Best Restaurant to Splurge: Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar - it's definitely $$$, but for the money, I'd rather go to Kai.
  • Best Quick (Non-Fast) Food: Oregano's Pizza Bistro - This one defies logic. Considering the long waits that are a staple of Oregano's, I don't see how you can read this one with a straight face. Even when you do finally get a table, it's often a long wait for the food!
  • Best Steakhouse: Donovan's Steak & Chop House - I think you'll find a lot of people divided on this one.
  • Best Romantic Restaurant: The Melting Pot - Fondue can definitely be romantic, however, for overall atmosphere, there are better choices.
  • Best Pub with Grub: Zipps Sports Grill - For the love of all things! Four Peaks, Sonoran, and about ten other places come to mind before I would have ever thought to myself "hey Zipp's!"
  • Best Patio Dining: Oregano's Pizza Bistro - The AZ republic actually got this right in their commentary on the win when they wrote "Located all over the Valley, with patios overlooking parking lots, streets and walls, it's hard to say what, exactly, it was about the outdoor dining spaces at the various Oregano's that azcentral.com voters found so alluring."
  • Best Health Food Store: Trader Joe's - I love Trader Joe's, and so does everyone else.
  • Best Sunday Brunch: T. Cook's - There is talent there, although the execution can be spotty.
  • Best Thai Restaurant: Pink Pepper Thai Cuisine - NO WAY IN HELL. Swaddee, Maylee's, Yuppha, and many more should be at the top of this list.

It's hard to get people to take Arizona seriously as a foodie destination when this is the best we can come up with.

My favorite Delaware liquor store, Total Wine & More (formerly Liquor World) recently opened an Arizona outpost in Glendale. While it's a bit of a hike for those of us in the East valley, the prices and selection more than make up for that. With over 8,000 different wines, 2,000 types of spirits and 1,000 + beers, they blow away any and all competition in the valley, including my other favorite BevMo.

I see a shopping trip ala Leaving Las Vegas in my near future.

Corks

I always knew I liked wine. What's apparent after saving the majority of corks from wine I consumed over the past two years is that I really like wine, a lot!

Pere and I keep a large vase in our family room, right above the fireplace where we put all of the corks from wine we have both at home and out at restaurants. We pretty much just keep corks from wine and champagne that are actual cork - none of the polymer corks or screw caps for us!

It took us exactly two years to fill up the vase. This morning, I emptied out all of the corks so we could start fresh for 2008. Being curious, I also decided to count how many corks we had. Any guesses? I'll save you the suspense: 361. That's just about a bottle of wine every other day for two years. Of course this is only a rough estimate as many of the bottles were consumed with friends and more than a few had polymer corks that we didn't save.

The next thing I need to figure out is what to do with all of the corks we've saved. The 361 from the past 2 years is only the tip of the iceberg. We actually have hundreds more we've saved up from previous years (although we've never counted them). Originally, we figured we would make a trivet or two from the corks. That idea evolved into making a bar top from the corks. We're still holding onto that idea, but at our current house there really isn't a place to build a bar. So for now, we continue to save our corks, waiting for the day when we actually put them to good use.

Last night, Pere and I met friends for dinner at relatively new French "Bistro" in Ahwatukee called La Vigne French Bistro & Wine Bar. La Vigne opened in May and I had been dying to try them out. I always have high hopes for new independent restaurants in my area, and the addition of a new French restaurant was irresistible.

When we arrived at the restaurant, it was practically empty. The place was huge, with a very large patio to boot. For a small intimate space, that might have felt ok, but for a 5000 square foot restaurant, it had an off-putting feeling. In such a busy shopping center, with Ra Sushi right next door packing people in, why was La Vigne so empty? I put aside my initial impression and decided to just let the experience speak for itself. On the La Vigne website, the restaurant owners state that the restaurant was conceived after a trip to the French countryside and that they wanted to bring a slice of France back to Ahwatukee. Having been to France several times, I can't say that the interior had the desired effect. Although it was nicely appointed and tastefully done, Pere remarked that the interior was much more Tuscan than French, and it certainly didn't look like any bistro we had ever been to.

We took our seats and started to look over the wine list. There were several French varietals on the menu, but none that I particularly recognized. Our server wasn't at all knowledgeable about the wine list, so I decided to play it safe and only go with wines I recognized. It's a shame, because I really like French wine. But without the advice of someone who can offer an informed opinion, I wasn't going to spend $50 on a random wine I may not like.

When our server came back to take our drink order, Pere ordered a gin and tonic. I was in the mood for gin as well, so I went with a gin martini, up, with a twist. Our friends Bill and Leorna ordered splits of Mumm "Napa Cuvée M sparkling wine. When our server arrived with the drink order, she was a little flustered. Apparently, she had bumped into the bartender on the way out and spilled the drinks all over herself (which she told us). That explains the high-water mark on my martini, which subsequently wasn't topped off. Leorna took one look at her champagne and immediately remarked to the server that it was completely flat, and to please bring her a new glass. At about the same time, she also realized that the waitress had brought out the champagne in a glass, but the split bottle was nowhere to be seen. When the waitress returned with new glasses of champagne, she apologized for the first round and remarked that the bartender had poured off the last of an open bottle, and that's why it was flat. That's when Leorna informed her that she had ordered splits, not by the glass champagne. After some looking over the wine list, the server acknowledged the mistake and headed off back to the bar. A few minutes later, she returned with two splits and once again apologized. She popped the corks (loudly) on the splits and told Bill and Leorna to go ahead and keep the other drinks on the house (too bad they were all flat).

As we settled in with our drinks and began to look over the menu, our server returned and asked if we were ready to order. We politely told her we had just started to look at the menu, and would need a few minutes. She took that literally, and returned about three minutes later. We let her know a few more minutes would be necessary to make our selections. I hate feeling rushed, and usually do a good job at setting the pace I want by slowing down the ordering, or ordering appetizers and waiting for them to come before making entree selections, but none of that really seemed to be effective here.

The entree selection was pretty sparse. One thing that I found a bit irritating was the steak selection. It took up almost an entire page on the menu, but made no sense to me at all. The menu listed three different steak options, all for $29.99: Steak au Poivre w/ cognac and red wine sauce, Peppercorn Steak (isn't what Steak au Poivre means?) w/ peppercorn cream sauce, and Steak Grillé with no sauce, although you could add either of the two previously mentioned sauces, or a béarnaise sauce for an extra $1.49. All three came in either a 9oz fillet or a 4oz New Your Strip for that same price. So essentially, the could have just listed it as a pepper crusted steak with your choice of sauces, in either a 9oz fillet or a 14oz New York Strip for $29.99, and the same steak, just without peppercorns. It certainly didn't have to take up an entire page. Beyond the steak options, other choices included Duck a L'orange, three chicken dishes, a salmon dish, and a scallop dish. All entrees came with soup or salad, choice of potato, and wither asparagus or green beans.

At this point, we decided on a few appetizers - Pate, and endive spears with apple and Roquefort salad, and a bowl of French onion soup for Bill. We also took this opportunity to place our entree orders.

A few minutes later, the appetizers arrived. The pate was good, although given the generous amount a few more pieces of toasted baguette would have been appropriate. The endive with apple and Roquefort that Leorna ordered was particularly good. Bill's French onion soup was well received too.

While we were still eating our appetizers, our dinner salads arrived. Instead of seeing that we were still working on our appetizers, our server dropped off the salads right along side of them and headed off back to the kitchen. We could tell that timing was starting to become an issue. Little did we know just how much of an issue it was going to be, though. About five minutes after dropping off the salads, our waitress returned with our entrees. That's when she had the "a-ha" moment and realized just how off the kitchen timing was. She apologized and offered to take the entrees back and hold them there until we were ready. At that point, Leorna let her know that yes, that's what we wanted her to do, but if our meals came out overcooked, we would be sending them back. With Leorna's steak starting out as medium rare, and Pere having scallops, not to mention Bill and I having chicken breasts, we were worried we would be eating shoe leather after the food came back from being under a heat lamp.

The moment we finished our salads (literally), someone was there to clear our plates, and our server was back out with our entrees. I had ordered the Poulet à la Moutarde (chicken w/ mustard), with fries as my potato. What I was served, though, had mashed potatoes instead. This actually worked out ok for me. When I told our server that I had ordered fries and not mashed potatoes, she quickly let the kitchen know to whip me up a batch of fries as they had gotten the order wrong. Instead of soggy fries that had been under a heat lamp for 15 minutes, I had a nice piping hot plate of frites fresh from the fryer, and they were excellent! Our server felt bad enough about everything that had gone wrong up to this point that she offered to comp us two desserts.

Pere's scallops ended up being slightly overcooked, but not enough that she felt she had to send them back. My chicken had just passed the perfectly done state and was a little on the dry side, but the mustard sauce, although a tinge too acidic, did a good job of adding necessary moisture to each bite. I was happy with the dish. Leorna sliced a piece off the end of her steak, and I could tell from her facial expression that she wasn't happy. She had the waitress take it back because it appeared to be well done. She also sent the cognac red wine sauce back because she thought it tasted tinny. A few minutes later, the server returned with the dish and explained that upon returning it to the kitchen, the chef had cut open the steak (in the center), and it was indeed still medium rare in the center. They offered to make her a new one if she still wanted one, but she declined and took the returned entree, this time with the béarnaise sauce.

Since our desserts were being comp'd, we decided on the crème brulée and a chocolate soufflé along with a bottle of Cuvée Rouge Champagne (I don't remember what house as it was Leorna's pick). A few moments later, our server was back to inform us that they were all out of he Cuvée Rouge "because the wine guy didn't come today". She then informed us that the wine list was arranged from sweet to dry (funny, it seemed to be arranged in order of price to me), and we could just pick one above or below our initial choice and it would taste about the same. We declined and instead decided to go with 4 more splits of the Cuvée M. A few minutes later she was back out with the four bottles, letting us know that she had to dig around in the back to find them. Four more loud pops, and we were all sitting back laughing about how disastrous the meal had been so far. It's then that the desserts arrived. The sugar on top of the crème brulée was actually perfectly caramelized. The custard underneath was a bit too warm, and could have used a little more vanilla, but it was still good. The chocolate soufflé that Bill ordered was anything but. Besides the fact that it was yellow, the first bite confirmed it to be a strawberry soufflé. Oh well. At that point, we had finally had enough and asked for the check. Bill also asked if we were the worst table she had that evening. She completely missed the point and replied that actually the table next to us was worse because they had kids, and she doesn't like kids (other than her own)!

I wanted to like La Vigne, I really did. There aren't enough good neighborhood spots in Ahwatukee, and I was really hoping La Vigne would help fill that niche. I can't chalk it up to opening week jitters now that they have been open for a few months. I realize they are still new, but as large as the place is, if they don't start filling tables soon, I don't see how they'll be able to afford to stay open. Given the execution and service issues, they have some serious work ahead of them to counter experiences like the ones our friends and we had. I'm not trying to bash La Vigne. Had the owners been in that night, I would have been happy to talk with them about our experience as I really do believe in offering restaurants constructive criticism, and a chance to redeem themselves. Unfortunately, though, I don't think I'll be going back to La Vigne anytime soon. If they are still around six months from now, maybe I'll give them another shot.

La Vigne Bistro on Urbanspoon

David Bruce is one of my favorite California Pinot Noir producers. The man really knows his pinots. Last night I tried his 2004 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($30). The wine was fairly fruit forward with notes of berry, black cherry, and plum. It felt full bodied and finished very smooth without overly agressive tannins. Overall, I liked the wine a lot. I currently have David Bruce pinots from two other regions that I'm looking forward to trying. I'd really like to use them in a tasting together - now I just need to figure out who to invite over!

Available locally at BevMo as well as the Wine Rack.

Phoenicians rejoice! BevMo Beverages & More, the popular California wine, spirits, and beer giant is headed to the Phoenix area. Their first store in Arizona is set to open on September 29, 2006. Located at 7230 W. Ray Road (across from AJ's), the 13,000 square foot Chandler location will carry upward of 3,000 wines, 1200 spirits, 800 beers, 1000 specialty foods, 150 cigars, and assorted glassware.

Personally, I can't wait for BevMo to open. I find the wine and beer selection in the Phoenix area to be pitiful. While AZ is certainly convenient with beer, wine, and spirits available in grocery stores, what you pay for that convenience is choice. I realize there are a few decent specialty shops and liquor stores in the area with a better selection than most, but I really haven't found a place that I can honestly say I've been impressed with.

Maybe it's because I used to live two miles from a Total Wine & More, where the wine selection was over 8,000 bottles , the spirit choices over 2,000, and more than 1,000 different beers. Maybe it's because I'm tired of paying AJ's inflated prices just for a little variety. Whatever the case, BevMo is sure to make an impact in the area.

Last night, I happened to be back in Santa Clara on business and needed a decent place for dinner, ahead of a big customer meeting the following morning. We decided on Parcel 104, partly because we had heard good things about the restaurant, and also because it was only a mile from our hotel.

Parcel 104 is Bradley Ogden's place (with Executive Chef Bart Hosmer), located at the Marriott Santa Clara. The entire restaurant is built around the concept of fresh, local ingredients. To uphold this philosophy, Parcel 104 changes their menu daily. That's the entire menu, not just the specials. Additionally, the wine list is managed by Master Sommelier Randall Bertao (there are only 124 master sommelier's in the entire world).

We arrived a few minutes ahead of our 7:45 reservation, so we decided to have a drink at the bar while we waited for our table. The drink menu was fairly extensive, with a number of signature martinis. I decided to go with the "Paint the Town Brown", a chocolate martini made with Hershey's syrup, Godiva dark chocolate liqueur, cream, and creme de cacao. It was pretty tasty, although not quite as smooth as other chocolate martinis I've had. It wasn't long until our table was ready.

There were several options on the menu worth noting. Options included ordering à la carte, a three course dinner (appetizer, entree, sweet course), a vegetarian tasting menu, or the chef's indulgence - a six course tasting menu, with or without wine pairings. After agonizing over what to have (there were so many interesting options), we all decided to go with the chef's indulgence with the wine option.

The first course was known as "A Little Bite" and consisted of a small espresso cup filled with corn bisque. This was served with a glass of Iron Horse Blanc de Blanc, 1998. The sweetness of the corn bisque was nicely balanced by the dryness of the sparkling wine.

Next up were Alaskan Halibut cheeks served with a green olive-molinari "salamitini" and a toy box eggplant "barta". I haven't seen cheeks on most American menus, although they are very popular in Asia. In this case, the Halibut cheeks were firm and sweet. They were paired with a glass of Leitz Riesling Rudesheimer Klosterlay, 2005. The Riesling was very delicate and not at all too sweet for the dish.

The third course consisted of cocoa crusted venison tartare accompanied by a white bean "mash", blueberry compote, and a cumin seed cracker. The tartare consisted of both seared and raw chunks of venison and was absolutely delish. Paired with a Tantara Pinot Noir, 2004, the fruity notes of the wine really stood out.

The main entree of the tasting was a Cedar Springs double lamb chop with Terra Firma Farms charred tomato sauce and caramelized fennel mashed potatoes, The lamb was done rare and had a nice meaty taste without even a hint of gamey flavor, as can be the case with lamb. I really enjoyed the mashed potatoes. The caramelized fennel added sweetness with just enough bite to make them interesting. The wine pairing, a Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002 was well balanced and stood up to the strong flavor of the meat.

After the lamb came a small plate with a piece of "Rouge et Noir" Camembert from Marin Cheese, a piece of toasted walnut-currant bread, a few almonds, and a fresh sliced fig. The cheese was good, but what really stood out was how nicely it went with the Sauternes it was served with - Castelnau de Suduiraut, 2001.

By the time the final dessert course, a Gran Marnier creme brulee arrived, we were all completely stuffed. Somehow, though, we managed to make our way through it. The crust was golden brown and perfectly crisped while the inside was nice and velvety smooth, thanks no doubt to pastry chef Carlos Sanchez. The final wine pairing was a late harvest wine from Dolce. They only produce a single wine and as such label the bottle simply "Dolce". The vintage we had was 2004. It was very sweet, like the Sauternes, but more concentrated. It lived up to the "liquid gold" moniker it's also know by.

A few other points about our experience worth noting. First, our waiter Rusty was excellent. It's been a long time since I've had a waiter as knowledgeable, courteous, and friendly as Rusty. He was very passionate about the restaurant and what it serves, and it really showed - all without even the slightest hint of condescension. The second point has to do with pace. Our dinner was nice and leisurely - something that doesn't happen often enough in American restaurants. If there's one thing I hate, it's feeling like I'm being rushed through dinner just so the restaurant can turn another table.

Overall, our dinner at Parcel 104 turned out to be fantastic. It was pricey for sure, but when you consider the wide variety of items we were able to sample, the expert wine pairings, and the prompt and knowledgeable service, it's definitely worth a visit.

Parcel 104 on Urbanspoon

Laguiole Waiter's Friend

When I travel, my favorite souvenirs tend to be practical - things I can use often. Most often, they have to do with food and drink. One of my absolute favorite possessions is a Laguiole waiter's friend that I got while on my honeymoon in France. At the time, it was a big purchase for me, costing around $90 or so. I've now had this particular corkscrew for close to 8 years, and together we've opened hundreds of bottles of wine. If you've never used a waiter's friend before, they can take some getting used to. They have a blade, similar to one found on a pocket knife, that's used to remove the foil from a bottle. The actual uncorking is done by lever action. Once you've got the opening technique down, though, you'll never feel the need to switch to another type of corkscrew.

I have to confess, my taste in wines seems to go in cycles. For the past six months or so, I've really been on a zin kick. That, and buttery chardonnays - and pinot grigios (Pere's favorite) on the white side.

A few weeks ago, I was having lamb and decided I needed a nice cabernet to go with it. I picked up a bottle of Benziger 2002 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon for around $20. I generally try to keep my everyday wines in the $8-$15 range, but will spend a bit more when I'm in the mood. I was pretty impressed with the Benziger that first night I had it and have since tried it on two other occassions, including tonight.

I'm sitting here now, enjoying a glass as I write this entry. This glass is just as good as the first glass I had several weeks ago. It's very fruit forward with a velvety mouth feel. Immediately what comes to mind, blackberry, cherry, and wood (not oak). The wine finishes very smoothly with just a hint of tannin. This is a great cabernet that's easily drinkable now, and should prove to be even better with a few years under its belt. I guess the real question is, will I continue to buy this by the bottle, or pick up a case or two so I can continue to enjoy it into the future.

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