Viewing By Category : Taiwanese / Main
February 22, 2007

When I was in Taiwan a few weeks ago, I wanted to see Taipei 101, the (current) world's tallest building. Before I went, I asked Pere to email her brother and his wife Iris to ask for suggestions on what I should try to see and do while in Taiwan. Iris is Taiwanese, so I was hoping for some inside information. What I got turned out to be a whole lot better. As it happened, they replied to Pere's email about 5 minutes later to say that they were actually in Taipei! They gave me a call at my hotel, and we made plans to meet the next day.

After an afternoon of sightseeing, we were all getting hungry and needed to find somewhere to eat. My brother in law David was in the mood for steamed buns and dumplings, so Iris suggested a place called Din Tai Fung that was "world famous" for their soup dumplings. It sounded good to me, so we grabbed a cab and headed off for the restaurant.

When we arrived at Din Tai Fung, it was a little after 5:30 pm. It was on the early side for dinner, but Iris said that the place we were going to often gets very busy, so arriving early was actually in our favor. After checking in with someone behind the counter, we were immediately taken to a 2nd floor dining room and seated. Although the restaurant was relatively calm on the outside, inside, it was bustling and hopping with lots and of waitresses carrying around a seemingly endless stream of bamboo steamers.

Din Tai Fung

After looking over the menu (it was in both Mandarin and English), we all decided to just let Iris do the ordering for us. Everything on the menu looked great, so we knew we were in good hands. When our waitress returned, Iris ticked off a list of dishes for the table, and ordered some tea as well.

It wasn't more than five minutes before our first dish arrived - steamed soup dumplings (xiaolongbao or xiao long bao). What makes Xiaolongbao different from other types of steamed buns and dumplings is the filling. In addition to meat, the dumplings are also stuffed with gelatenous stock before being steamed. Once steamed, the gelatin melts and becomes the soup inside the bun. When you eat a xiaolongbao, you get a nice combination of meat, soup, and wrapper. The soup buns at Din Tai Fung were awesome. The soup was very hot, and it was easy to scald yourself if you didn't let them cool just a bit before eating. Wait too long, though, and the soup wasn't quite as good. What also makes the xiaolongbao unique at Din Tai Fung is the number of pleats in each dumpling. Apparently, the buns at Din Tai Fung have more pleats than most other places, which is a result of years of experimentation by the owner.

Xiaolongbao - Steamed Soup Dumplings

About two seconds (literally) after we finished the xiaolongbao, our waitress cleared the steamer basket from our table, and another waitress showed up with our shrimp dumplings. The shrimp dumplings had the familiar dumpling shape, and were also good, but not quite as exciting as the xiaolongbao.

Shrimp Dumpling

Next up was a pot of wonton soup. The broth was very mild, yet had enough chicken favour to keep it interesting. Like all of the buns and dumplings we had tried so far, the wontons were perfectly prepared, making for a nice accompanyment to the rest of the meal.

Wonton Soup

After the wonton soup, we had more steamed buns. This time, they contained a mixture of crab and pork. They didn't quite have as much crab flavor as I had hoped for, but they were still good. Each one was expertly crimped and steamed.

Crab and Pork Buns

Our next dish was another soup. It had pork dumplings, rice noodles, and bean curd skins in it. I really enjoyed this soup. One thing I found interesting in Taiwan is that it's quite common to have two, three, and even four types of soup in a single meal - each with a completely different flavor and character.

Tofu Soup

The tofu soup was followed by a round of steamed shrimp buns. By this point, I realized I was starting to get a bit full. however, as good as everything was, I couldn't help myself, so I just kept eating. The shrimp buns were also tasty, but I really wish we had ordered two orders of the xiaolongbao because they were simply outstanding.

Shrimp Buns

After finishing off the last of the shrimp buns, we decided to take another look at the menu and pick out something for dessert. After looking everything over, we settled on two items - red bean buns, and steamed cake.

The red bean buns came out looking just like al of the other buns we ordered. However, when I went to pick one up with my chopsticks, I could tell right away the were different. The first giveaway was how sticky they were. The stuck to my chopsticks, and them to the roof of my mouth. The red bean filling was delicious. I helped myself to three of them before I had to call it quits.

Red Bean Bun

I had just enough room left to try a bite of the steamed cake. We had one big piece to split between the four of us, and without a knie, it was a bit difficult to cut with chopsticks, but we managed. I was expecting a fairly light sweer dessert when I took my first bite. The cake turned out to be fairly light, but it only had a hint of sweetness. In fact, it had a flavor similar to white sandwich bread that didn't particularly do anything for me. I finished things off with a bit more tea, then sat back to let everything settle.

Steamed Cake

Once we had all rested up for a few minutes, we headed back downstairs to pay the bill. I don't know how I missed it on the way up, but there was a huge window into the dumpling and bun making room. It was like a mini-factory in there with a bunch of people mixing dough, rolling out dumplings, getting them into steamer baskets, and steaming them up. It was an incredible sight to watch.

Making Dumplings at Din Tai Fung

After we paid the bill, we headed back outside to do some more sightseeing. This is when I saw the crowd that had gathered outside the restaurant to wait for a table. There was an electronic take-a-number sign hanging on a post that displayed the number of the next lucky diners to be granted admission. I later came to learn that once inside, you have 40 minutes to complete your meal before being asked to leave. No wonder our waitress and servers were so efficient!

Din Tai Fung

I have to say, the Din Tai Fung turned out to be one of the best meals I had in Taiwan. Their steamed soup buns certainly live up to their reputation. If you ever find yourself in Taipei, definitely get on over to Din Tai Fung - it's an experience you won't want to miss.

January 30, 2007

Hot Pot

The other night, my co-worker Adam and I decided to hit the streets of Chungli in search of something differnt than the usual Cantonese and Taiwanese food we had been having most of the past week. We spied a little restaurant off of a side street that looked appetizing, so we decided to go for it.

We were greeted with a hearty "Ni Hao" (hello), to which we replied "Ni Hao" back. We were immediately shown to a table and handed two menus. Issue number 1. We don't speak Mandarin, and no one at the restaurant spoke English. No problem, we've gotten by as some places have English menus, while others have pictures, or plasticized models of the various dishes. Problem 2, Shu Shan Chuan had neither. Our menu was entirely in Chinese, and there were no pictures to be found. Problem 3, we didn't bring a phrase book with us, so our communication was limited to a few key words: Hello, how are you, thank you, beer, numbers 0-10, etc.

With this in mind, imagine the scene that unfolded when our waiter approached and started asking us what we wanted in Chinese, and all we could do was look at him, smile a lot, and laugh. Then he laughed. Then we laughed again too. Before you knew it, we were all laughing and smiling, and it was just plain silly. In the end, we just sort of shrugged our shoulders, pointed at the menu, and pointed back at the waiter and made a gesture that we hoped translated to "please sir, we have no idea what we're doing here. Please choose something both tasty and nutritious for us to eat this evening". We could tell that the place served hot pots, so we hoped that was what we had just ordered.

Hot Pot

It must have worked, because a few minutes later, a woman showed up at our table with a huge bowl with two types of broth in it. She placed it on a burner in the middle of the table and brought it to a boil. Meanwhile, other people started showing up at the table with plates containing all sorts of items for us to add to the pot. We had lettuce leaves, bok choy, mushrooms, lamb, thin sliced beef, dumplings, tofu, some sort of thing that looked like tofu, but was made from blood, and several other items that I couldn't identify. Someone else motioned us over to a little stand behind our table where about two dozen different pots and dishes were setup. The grabbed us an empty bowl and began mixing items from the pots and dishes - obviously mixing up a dipping sauce. We were handed the completed sauce and encouraged to go ahead and make our own. It was fun, even though I was only able to identify about half of the ingredients by sight.

The food itself turned out to be really good. Sometimes, it was a little messy to eat, but we really enjoyed the cook it yourself experience with ingredients we weren't normally used to working with.

As one friend suggested, next time we are in a situation where we can't easily communicate what we want to eat, we should try to act it out using charades. Given how our first experience went, I think it might actually be fun(ny) to give this a try sometime.

January 28, 2007

UPDATE:Sadly, Jack had to close the Good Morning Vietnam pub near the middle of 2007 as the owner of the building was selling out. It was a great place that made my Taiwan experience something I'll never forget. That said, Jack has opened a new place right down the street called The Jalapeno. It specializes in Mexican and Western food, cocktails, and beer. I'm sure the atmosphere and conversation will be just as welcoming as Good Morning Vietnam. The new address and phone number:

1F, No. 370 Min Chuan Road
Jungli City, Taoyuan
Taiwan, R.O.C.
TEL: 0910-338083

Good Morning Vietnam Pub For about the past week now, I've been in Taiwan working on a project for my company. I'm staying in a city about an hour outside of Taipei called Chung-Li (Chungli, Jhong-li, Jhungli, Jungli, or Jung-Li). It's a sprawling city for sure, with a colorful assortment of shops, businesses, and places to eat. Beyond that, though, there isn't a whole lot to do.

A coworker of mine mentioned a pub a few blocks from my hotel called Good Morning Vietnam. I know what you're thinking. Why would I want to visit a pub with a western style name while I'm in Taiwan. Normally, I wouldn't have given it a try. However, given the limited selection of things to do at night, I figured why not. It turns out Good Morning Vietnam is one of the best pubs I've had the pleasure of visiting while traveling - anywhere. What makes the place so special is everyone there - from the owner Jack on down to the employees (Tulip, Ruby, Selina, and Steven). Everyone there, including the other patrons made me and my traveling companion Adam feel right at home.

Jack and Adam

You see, even though it sounds like it's a western style bar, we were the only westerners there. Everyone else there was Taiwanese, and was happy to practice their English with us and have a good time (we got to practice a little Chinese as well). Over the past week, we've ended up back at Good Morning Vietnam almost every night. We've spent hours talking with locals, playing games (pool and a form of dice - all for fun), and learning magic tricks from Jack (he knows a lot of good tricks). I've never been anywhere else before where the locals have taken such an interest in a couple of visitors. I've found the people there to be among the most friendly I've ever met while traveling.

If you're ever passing through Chung-Li, and are looking for a place to spend a few hours (or just pop in for a quick drink and pleasant conversation), definitely give Good Morning Vietnam a try.

Good Morning Vietnam Pub
2nd F No. 5 Lane
Sec. 1
Chung-Yang West Road
Chung-Li City
320 Taiwan

03-422-7775




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